Anyone ever use Thinset instead of mortar for placement of brick veneers and then go back and grout in the mortar for the joints? I’m thinking maybe Thinset might hold the weight of the veneer better on the vertical portions and over the door opening instead of having to use another angle iron. I have two layers of 8mm insulation blankets on a Grande built to spec. Oh and the front door area is already built with fire bricks so the veneers will just cover the fire brick. Thanks!
When I set my veneers I used Liquid Nail / construction adhesive.
The company I bought my brick from said it would work fine and I have had no problems.
Make sure the construction adhesive is rated for outdoor use and I used strips of duct tape and tile spacers to make sure they stayed in place while the glue hardened.
For the grout I used left over stucco that I had on hand and it has held up fine also.
Edit, I glued my veneers onto the base coat of stucco, I am assuming you have the base coat completed.
Thanks for this. Yes I have the two layers of stucco/mortar already applied. I was actually wondering if a glue would be better than Thinset for the long haul. The primary additive in Thinset is concrete and it might adhere better to the stucco mortar layer? Probably either/or scenario will work. Price-wise I think the Thinset would be a lot cheaper than glue. I’ve used glue on a fire pit for retaining wall block and it works great but we also went through a lot of it. Thanks again.
Edit: I have a similar glue product made for brick and stone and everything looks good until you look at the product warning. Wow what a nice brick oven, KaBoom!!!
That does sound ominous, Mark!
In my opinion it would only be a problem if you happen to be baking and setting your veneer at the same time. It’s the carrier solvents in the adhesive that give off flammable vapors. Once the adhesive cures, the solvents will have “gassed off” and the residue (your actual adhesive) becomes inert.
The particular product in the photo can be applied dry or wet, and is expected to perform in outdoor settings. The adhesive itself needs to be soluble in something besides water, which most often means a solvent that has flammable properties.
I agree with your general point:
Yes it would be unfortunate if one were baking and using that glue to set veneers. LOL I used the same glue for a fire pit and never experienced any explosions post drying. and that’s a good thing! Used the Thinset tonight and it worked like a champ. Adhered fast too. Thanks everyone.
And I wish I could say I never knew anyone who might think that was an okay thing to do…
Hi All. This is along the lines of my question as well. After I use the High-Temp mortar mix to close off the face of the oven (that’s the mortar i’m supposed to use…right?)…what mortar do I use to attach the granite face I plan on putting over the top of the close off area?? Also…how long do I wait before I attach the granite face piece (here in AZ…where it is ave 107F daily)?
I’d go ahead and use any of the products mentioned up-thread. Give your high-temp mortar (and yes, that’s what you should use for closing off the face) maybe four or five days to set properly, though if your weather holds the heat is going to make a difference there. Then use your preferred adhesive to set the granite verticals on your face. Let that set up according to package instructions before you start your curing fires.
The high-temp mortar is going to gain strength as it cures, and will become rock-solid once it is fired.
All of these wait periods may seem endless, but they will pay off with many trouble-free years of operation.
As usual, thanks again for the quick response. I have been looking at the following adhesives. I have a half tube of both, the Rutland Fireplace Mortar and the Loctite PL530 Mirror, Marble and Granite Adhesive on hand.
Any choice between the two? I am nervous about the explosion warning on the granite adhesive…but I read your links above. Once it’s dry, it should be ok? The rutland product is made to take the heat…but will it adhere to the granite? Any thoughts? Dwayne
I would choose the granite adhesive. The Rutland product is meant to repair joints that take direct flame (refractory), thus the 2000 degree rating. It doesn’t completely cure until it has been fired, which is not your application. (You hope your facing is NEVER going to come into contact with direct flame!)
You spotted both the explosion warning and the note above. You are working outdoors in a well ventilated area. Once the explosive solvents evaporate, so does the hazard.
You might want to pick up the Rutland product and have it on hand. It’s really good for repairing minor cracks in your mortar—about a year into operation, when your oven has had a chance to settle.
Awesome answers! Thanks again!!